Caring For a New Tree

Congratulations on your new tree. I hope you willincreased drainage.
enjoy it for years to come. Of course, in theBy the end of two months, you can generally
words of Pepper Provenzano, "When you plant ataper off to watering twice a week. You will not
tree, you plant a legacy." To get the most out ofneed to worry as much about the original root
your tree, and to extend the legacy it represents,ball, though you should still be aware of times
you will need to help it establish roots in its newwhen it is extremely dry and give it a spritz if it
home.reaches that point. Meanwhile, you should be
But be careful to avoid too much of a good thing;watering a fairly wide area around the tree. The
if the soil is already moist, adding more water canroots that absorb water and nutrients grow
encourage fungal diseases or other problems, sooutward more than downward; you really don't
always test with a finger to see if the top threeneed to get water any deeper than 18-24 inches.
inches of soil are dry before adding more water.At the 3-6 month range, continue to taper off
Make sure you are digging through the mulch andfrequency and water a wider area. For most of
checking moisture in the soil.the first year, you will probably want to stick with
Container-grown trees face a challenge when firstwatering every 4-5 days. In really hot, dry
planted because the native soil tends to beweather, you still might need to water more
different than the container soil. In Austin, typicallyoften. After a year, the tree should be fairly well
the native soil is heavy clay, which is dense andestablished, and you can taper off to once a
heavy. Moisture will quickly soak out of the rootweek. Continue through the second year to make
ball and into the surrounding soil, causing the treesure the tree is off to a strong start. After two
to dry out quicker than normal. Your role at thisyears, you can continue watering once a week,
early stage is to gradually train the roots tobut if you'd like you can just go for a deep
spread into the native soil while keeping thesoaking once every two weeks or so. This should
container soil from getting too dry too soon.generally serve you well for the rest of the tree's
You will want to start out by watering frequentlylife, though in times of severe drought even
at the base of the tree, then slowly taper offmature trees sometimes need extra water now
frequency while increasing volume and area of theand then.
irrigation. How often and how much you water willYour tree should have started with a three-inch
depend on the tree, the container soil, your nativedeep layer of hardwood mulch. This blankets the
soil, and weather, just to name a few factors. So,soil, helping to keep moisture from evaporating.
although we will offer some general guidelines forOver time, the mulch will decay and become part
watering, the only way to be sure your treeof the soil. Check periodically to make sure you
needs water is to dig into the soil and see if it isstill have plenty of mulch; it should be a layer 3.5
moist. Water when the soil is fairly dry in the topinches deep, but should not be piled against the
three inches of the original root ball. Stop wateringbase of the tree trunk. It should cover as wide an
when the soil is moist; you do not want to makearea as possible. If you are attached to your
the soil soggy or leave the tree standing in waterlawn, it can coexist with your tree, but you should
for long periods of time.understand that grass is a very good competitor
Typically, we plant in the Fall in Austin, so milderfor water and nutrients. Giving the tree a buffer
temperatures prevail and the soil may stay wetzone with no grass will allow it to thrive where a
longer. If we have warm days or dry winds, ittree with grass right up to the trunk will merely
might be wise to water once or twice a day insurvive.
the beginning. These will be small amounts ofAs for fertilizer, we do not usually recommend it.
water applied directly to the container root ball. IfMost Austin soil is low in nitrogen but high in
you never saw the tree before it was planted,potassium and phosphorus. Rather than apply a
focus the water around the base of the tree andgranular fertilizer that applies all of these elements,
outward approximately two feet from the trunk.we prefer top-dressing the lawn in Spring and Fall
Of course, a good rain may allow you to skipwith composted manure, which is mostly nitrogen.
watering for a few days. Again, poke a finger intoA thin layer (¼ to ½ inch deep)
the soil to see if it is dry before adding morespread on the surface of your lawn will invigorate
water. You will need to test for moisture in thethe soil ecosystem. It will also form humic acid as
native soil separately from the container soil toit decays, thus freeing up some nutrients that
avoid creating a swampy area.may be bound up with calcium in our soils due to
After a week or two, the tree should begin tohigh alkalinity. This, along with mulch, is all most
spread into the native soil. Continue to water thetrees need.
root ball as needed, but every two or three days,After a year or two, your young tree may
soak the area just beyond the ball. Think of it asbenefit from pruning to develop a strong
inviting the roots outward. It will probably takestructure. Spending a little money on the tree
longer for the water to soak into clay, so a slowearly can save a lot of expense and stress to the
drip might be better than running water out oftree later. For example, a quick cut to eliminate a
the hose. You can buy inexpensive soaker hosespoorly attached limb becomes a huge, expensive
that you can circle around the tree for thisproject if the tree is allowed to grow for several
purpose, but a sprinkler will work fine in mostyears without addressing the problem. You may
cases if you prefer it. In sandy soils, it may bewant to hire an arborist to advise you or prune
necessary to water more to allow for thethe tree for you when the time comes.