Prized Roses Come From Peatmoss Bonemeal and Cow Manure

I have always loved flowers but had no thoughtbetween the hills right on top of the summer
of growing roses until a couple of years ago whenmulch. About the middle of March, I gradually
my husband set out a dozen rose bushes near inremove the hills of dirt and manure, completing
our backyard. These didn't do well but by theirthe operation by the first of April when we may
failing offered the stimulus I needed to becomehave a few light frosts but no more hard freezes.
interested. I set out my first plants in 1995. SoI have found that the sooner the hills are
fair seemed the rose to me that once started Iremoved, the longer plants remain dormant.
went all out and now have 115 rose plants andPruning
expect to have more.In the fall, plants are cut back to within 3 to 4
From the first, chance played a kind role in myfeet of the ground to protect them from wind
venture with roses. Luckily, I had been gardeningand snow. In spring, pruning is completed in the
which included enriching a red clay vegetableusual manner and should be done, if possible,
garden at our home. In 1995, when I was readywhen buds start to swell.
to plant roses, the ground was ready to use.I use a coping saw, pruning knife and shears and
The land was level and in full sun. I set out 30prune to within 18 to 24 inches of the ground,
plants bought from a reliable nursery. The bedleaving 4 to 6 of the best canes. I paint each
was laid out in 3 rows 20 inches apart. Holes, 10pruned cane with an pruning paint. Pruned this
inches wide, were dug to a depth of about 12way, the first blooms are at their best the first
inches and plants set in them 20 inches apart.of June here in West Virginia.
Nothing was added to the dirt put back aroundIf, however, I wish to enter a later show, I prune
the plants.part of my bushes to 12 or 14 inches. Then, the
I did not know enough to hill the plants with soil atfirst blooms will be at their best about a week
planting time but Mother Nature blessed us withlater. The lower pruned bushes will have
rain every day that week and they all lived. Isomewhat longer stems but no better blooms.
didn't feed or water the plants and sprayed veryCut buds on the longer stems will keep no better
little. The plants neither grew nor performed wellthan those on shorter ones.
that first season.By October there's very little difference between
That fall, realizing there was more to roselow and high pruned bushes. The higher pruned
growing than buying plants and digging a hole inone is usually 8 to 10 feet tall while the low is 6
the earth to put them in, I joined the Americanto 8 feet tall but better formed. Once I
Rose Society.experimented by not pruning bushes in an
By the spring of 1996, I knew a little more. Iestablished bed. Never again! Bushes were tall and
bought 30 plants again and since the ground Ibloomed freely but were not pleasing to the eye.
planned to set them in was level, I thought someSpring Care
provision should be made for drainage.Pruning completed, mulch, compost and manure,
Three trenches, 24 inches deep and 14 inchesput on the previous spring, are removed. Now the
wide were made. The bottom 12 inches of soilunion or graft can be seen about an inch above
was dug and discarded and replaced by 4 inchesthe ground. To supply food and protect rootlets
of sand and gravel. On this, an 8-inch-deepand the graft from the sun, I recover the beds
mixture of topsoil, peat moss, rotten cow manurewith fresh material as soon as the old covering is
and some bonemeal was placed. The rest of theremoved.
trench was filled with a mixture of one partSince the rootlets are near the surface, I never
peatmoss and two parts topsoil.do any digging or loosening of the soil in any of
The third spring after I was bitten by the rosethe beds. First, I put on a one-inch layer of
bug, I planted 30 more plants. Because thesix-month-old cow manure, the manure being
second bed was sinking, leaving an unevenmixed with water in a tub to make it semi-liquid.
surface, the third was dug to a depth of only 13Next I add a half-inch layer of compost made by
inches. No sand, gravel or manure was used andadding about 6 pounds of 20 percent
much less of the other materials. Since thesuperphosphate to each cubic yard of leaves and
method used in laying out Bed No. 2 did not makegrass clippings in the compost pile. On this I place
for better drainage but acted as a reservoir, I dida 2 to 3-inch mulch of equal parts ground corn
not provide for drainage in this bed and I believecobs and peatmoss. I prefer this to any I've used.
that failure due to poor drainage is rare, anyway.Feeding Program
If I plant any more beds of roses, and I'm afraidAs soon as buds appear on new growth, the
I will, I will use Bed No. 1 as a pattern. Roses willcovering is pulled back 8 to 10 inches from each
be slower to start but after they get going they'llplant. First, a gallon of water from the hose is
be harder to stop. I believe this bed t0 begiven each plant and this is followed by a small
tougher in every way. Perhaps roses are likehandful of mixed food containing one part iron
humans, a little hardship in the beginning, when notsulphate, magnesium sulphate and borax; four
too harsh, makes for success in later life.parts potassium sulphate and 20 parts
Yet, if ever I want plants to come up in a hurrysuperphosphate. Each plant is given another gallon
but do not care for their future or quality ofof water and then recovered.
bloom, I'll plant them as I did my third bed but addThis is repeated each month until September
to the soil of each plant one tablespoon potassiumexcept that in July and August, one tablespoon
sulphate and six of superphosphate. This must beammonium sulphate is added to the feeding of
applied to the soil in such a way (over, around andeach plant. Two weeks after each feeding, I add
under roots) so as not to touch roots. I have twoa small handful of manure to each plant and
piles of soil for each plant. The one for directwater as before. If the weather is hot and dry, I
contact with roots is entirely free of chemicals.water more frequently. Deep watering, done
I never had the soil of any bed tested as I couldoften, is most essential.
see no need to. A different method of plantingSome may think this a lot of food. But, a plant
has been used for each bed. In one bed, nothinggrowing from 20 to 100 inches and producing an
but organic matter has been used. It has doneabundance of long-stemmed flowers, needs a lot
well but I'm convinced that top feeding of aof food. Last September I cut a rose bud from a
mixture of organic and inorganic matter is best.bush with a 44-inch stem and one 48 inches long
All roses I've bought from the second bed onthe same day. Both came from the first bed.
have been those recommended by the AmericanHealth Measures
Rose Society. These have been exhibition as wellPlant diseases and insect control is begun as soon
as decorative types. Feeding them was begun inas growth appears. In using insecticides and
the second year. Roses in the second and thirdfungicides, thoroughness of application and timing
beds were watered regularly from the first yearare most important.
and came up with a bang! It was only at the endI have eliminated black spot from my garden. A
of the third year that the plants in the first bedlong pair of thumb dressing forceps or have been
caught up with the other two. All three beds havea great help to me in fighting black spot; By using
now been planted long enough to prove a fewthe forceps, I can remove a diseased leaf easily
things to me.without touching and so infecting a healthy one. It
To a visitor all three beds would appear to bealso keeps hands at a safer distance from thorns.
going along at about the same pace and to beWhile visiting rose gardens, I've often observed
equally lovely. But not to me. There is a tenderthe owner pull off leaves infected with black spot
spot in my heart for the first bed. Probably,and then put his contaminated hands on healthy
because it was my "first child."foliage. Is there a better way of spreading this
Many more small roots grow near the surface indisease?
the first bed than the others and so needI've used malathion spray for the past two years
summer as well as winter protection. I, however,and have had excellent results with it in controlling
care for all beds the same way. To hold moistureinsects.
in the soil and keep heat out, I mulch in summer.Growing roses brings with it many delightful things.
To keep canes and rootlets from freezing, I hillBesides their beauty, one has the fun and sport
and add manure to the mulch in autumn. In myof competition and the pride of exhibition and
section, the lowest temperature in winter is aboutthere are friends made in the good company of
from 5 degrees above to 5 below zero. Wintersrose lovers, all interesting and friendly people and
may be severe enough to freeze canes rightfree from guile. The true rosarian has no secrets.
down to the protective hills. Sufficient dirt is,It is not an everyday thing that a man begins to
therefore, brought in from other parts of thegrow roses and in so short a time produces such
garden to hill around each plant to a height ofextraordinary beauties that they win hearts and
about 8 inches. Then, a little manure is placedraves from friends and rose lovers.