Pruning Basics Lesson #3 - Types of Pruning, Cuts, and How to Make Them

Much of the pruning that you are going to do iswill pass more freely through the remaining plant,
going to be based on the location of the variouslessening threats of disease and promoting better
buds that have the ability to grow after the cutsblooming. When thinning it is important, when
are made, and/or the active cellular area wherecutting to a branch junction, that the caliper of
cell division will seal the wound. The only timesthe remaining branch be sufficient so that it
that the location for pruning is unimportant isassumes the role of the terminal tip and continues
when you are simply shearing a hedge or bush,growing.
and perhaps when cosmetically thinning orMany times the location of pruning cut as it
grooming an already developed topiary or bonsai.relates to the remaining branch and buds is
As I explained in Lesson #2, "The Function ofimportant. Most cuts should be at about a 45
Pruning," actively growing terminal buds producedegree angle and 1/4 inch from the bud you want
hormones that travel down the stem and retardto encourage to grow, or 1/2 inch from the
the growth of lateral stem buds until the timejunction of the main branch you are cutting back
that the terminal shoot has grown enough so thatto, but always at an area of active growth. If you
its inhibiting influence further down the shoot hashave made a clean non-ragged cut, the active
weakened. In the case of latent buds on thegrowth area will stimulate the cambium cells in the
stem, which are sometimes only barely visible,area of the cut to grow inwards and seal off the
encouraging their development usually requires thewound. Leaving a ragged area, or too much
removal of both terminal and lateral stem tips,stem-stub where no active growth is occurring,
and many time these dormant buds may notleaves the branch or plant open to disease and
develop at all.decay as the long stub shrivels and dies. By
Pinching out the terminal bud on the main shoot orkeeping you tool blades sharp your cuts should be
a lateral shoot is the most basic type of pruning,clean.
and is used almost exclusively on the soft growthFor larger branches meeting the main trunk of a
of annuals, perennials and houseplants. This istree or meaty shrub, stay back or above the
accomplished with the most basic of tools, yourbranch ridge and avoid cutting into the branch
thumb and the first or second digits of your hand.collar. The ridge is the upper slightly swollen bark
Because I am pinching plants all the time, I allowarea where the branch meets the trunk and the
the nails on my pinching fingers to grow just acollar is that lower swollen area where the branch
tad longer than the other nails on my right hand.you are removing meets the main trunk. Do not
If you are concerned about the appearance orcut the branch flush to the trunk. Leaving the
strength of your nails, you can still use a pair ofcollar and ridge allows the plant to best seal itself,
small pruners or a pair of scissors instead of yourand will keep disease and decay from entering the
nails to pinch the young tips. Pinching the tips willmain trunk
stop the shoot from growing longer and willFor large branches that are still within your
promote branching and fuller, bushier growth.capability, but too large to support one handed, it
Heading a plant, by cutting off most leading tips, isis best to make the cut in three saw passes to
very similar to shearing and pinching, inducing theavoid ripping or stripping the bark. The first cut
lateral buds below the cuts to develop multipleshould be a one-third through cut from the
new stems. It has its place when trying to restartbottom, 8 to 12 inches away from the main trunk
neglected half-dead shrubs, to increase floweringor structure limb. The second cut should be a top
wood on roses, to establish a branching cluster incut 1/2 inch farther out on the branch. When you
an area on fruit trees or to fill a void area in areach the right point, the main part of the limb
tree or shrubs development. You have to beshould fall. (Careful) The finish cut will be made
careful not to get lazy by continually headingjust outside the branch ridge, at an angle so that
plants instead of thinning them, or you will destroyyou do NOT cut the branch bottom collar.
the natural desired shape of many landscapeBecause you have removed most of the weight
plants, or the branch strength of many fruit trees.with your first two cuts you will be able to hold
Thinning a plant is the preferred pruning methodthe final part you are removing as you complete
most of the time. It accomplishes most of thethe cut and have a clean removal.
good things that we want in yard and orchardPruning allows us to regulate size, direct growth,
maintenance. It allows us to regulate size, directand eliminate old or tangled branches that are
growth, and eliminate old or tangled branches thatinterfering with the plants structure. You need to
are interfering with the plants structure. Pruning tobe careful and keep your tool blades sharp and be
thin a tree or shrub means we are taking the cutattentive to your cuts. Cavalier or lazy pruning
branch back to the parent, or junction with thepractices with poorly maintained equipment can
parent branch from which it originated, or manydamage the natural shape of many landscape
times all the way to ground level. Because thinningplants and orchard trees, potentially leaving them
or hard pruning is also removing many lateral andopen to disease and insect problems. With proper
latent buds, there is less chance of forcingpruning care, your trees and shrubs will be
clusters of new shoots. Thus the overall bulk ofhealthy, safe, and more attractive, with better
the pruned plant will be reduced and the structureflowers and/or fruit.
of the plant will be reestablished and light and air