Pruning Evergreen Trees In The Spring - Important Tips For The Home Gardener

Spring is the principle season for pruningbut will almost invariably result in a pruning wound
evergreen trees. In adopting a correct approachwhich will become a source of rot and decay.
to the task, the gardener should be focusing onIt is natural to believe that our hands are the
two separate but connected matters. On the oneprinciple part of the human anatomy by which we
hand, we are interested in the tree growing in theprune trees. This is utterly wrong! Professional
desired manner, all the while recognizing thatgardeners do not prune with their hands, but
pruning is liable to seriously affect the futurerather with their eyes. Thought as usual precedes
long-term health and survival of the tree. In thisdeed. Always have a clear idea as to which
regard, we should never forget that the treebranches are to be pruned before even touching
stands unmatched as the single most significantthe saw or secateurs. Secondly, after removing
and precious feature in the garden.one branch, do not proceed to the next, but put
Pruning trees for shaping depends mainly on thethe tools down, step back from the tree and look
natural growth habit of the species concerned. Atat what you've done, revising your initial plan if
one extreme, there are the plants whose naturalnecessary.
shape is so strongly defined that pruning, at leastFrom the angle of the plant's health, two crucial
for shaping purposes, is unnecessary. Twopoints should be recognized. Firstly, removing
examples are Palms and Cypress trees. At theexcessive material at one session can seriously
other end of the scale are trees such asreduce the energy level of the tree.
Hawthorn or Elm, which tend towards a wild,Arboriculturists have reduced the whole complex
untidy habit. Many, if not most garden species,of tree care to a matter of maintaining a positive
require at least some pruning.energy gradient within the specimen. As a rule of
A golden rule for shaping purposes is to avoidthumb, one may remove, as an absolute upper
shortening branches, because this "stops" thelimit, one third of the volume of the tree. To be
natural direction in which the branch is growing.safe however, I recommend pruning no more
Instead, limbs that are earmarked for removalthan half that figure. If there are many branches
should be cut back to the trunk or thicker branchto prune, then it is best to stagger the work over
to which they are attached. In time, it appearsa couple of seasons.
that nothing has been pruned at all. This does notSecondly, the pruning wound should be as small as
have to apply though to young stems that inpossible in relation to the width of the trunk. Large
some species shoot forward as long, but thinpruning cuts do not heal properly, even if the
leaders. Such a growth pattern is commonwound appears to have completely calloused over.
amongst citrus trees for example, and there is noThe result is bacterial or fungal infections that lead
harm in clipping these leaders, in order toto rot and decay within the heart of the tree. In
encourage lateral growth.cases where the branch to be removed is too
It is important to remove at the juvenile stage,thick in relation to the trunk, it can be shortened
those stems that are clearly liable to beto a stub of a about a meter in length, (3 feet)
troublesome when they thicken over the yearsand sliced back further every few months, as
into mature branches. The most obviousthough it were a salami or cucumber. This has the
candidates for early removal are stems thateffect of retarding the thickening of the branch,
grow parallel to the trunk, or whose angle to theand while the trunk continues to thicken over a
trunk is too small. Pruning out a young stem isfew years, its diameter remains the same.
often a matter of a quick snip with the secateurs.Consequently, when the final pruning cut is made,
Attempting to saw a thick branch however, is notthe wound will be of an appropriate size relative
only time-consuming (the lesser problem by far)to the width of the trunk.