| Generally speaking, it is best to prune fruit trees | | | | should consider: |
| in winter, when they are dormant. This is certainly | | | | • Select all the lateral side-shoots (those that |
| true of any normal apple trees that you would | | | | come directly off the main stem) that are longer |
| find in an orchard. As with all gardening rules, | | | | than 20cms. Cut them back to just above the |
| however, there are exceptions. Restricted, wire | | | | third group of leaves above the base (where |
| trained forms of apple tree, such as fans, cordons | | | | there is usually a cluster or rosette of leaves). |
| and espaliers need special treatment (the same | | | | • Leave the lateral shoots that are less than |
| applies to pears). | | | | 20cms alone. |
| Unlike normal fruit trees, where you want them | | | | • Sub-lateral shoots are the side-shoots that |
| to grow nice and big, the whole point of a | | | | are growing on the laterals side-shoots. Cut all of |
| restricted form is that it stays in its limited space. | | | | these back to just above one group of leaves |
| Summer pruning is an effective way of making | | | | above their base. |
| that happen. In autumn, when a deciduous plant | | | | • Look out for side-shoots that are growing |
| settles down for the winter and begins to shed its | | | | strongly and straight upwards. These are trying to |
| leaves, it sends most of its nutrient rich sap down | | | | become the new leading stem and, unless you |
| into its roots for safe keeping. By pruning certain | | | | want your cordon to grow longer, they need to |
| new shoots in late summer, you are taking away | | | | be removed entirely as they will divert energy |
| a chunk of its "start-up" fuel for spring. Done | | | | form the branches where you want fruit to form. |
| correctly, this has the effect of stunting the | | | | • Check on your plants/fruit trees as winter |
| tree's growth, without harming it at all. It is also | | | | closes in late September, pinching off any new |
| good for the fruit that are on the branches that | | | | growth that has sprouted since you pruned them. |
| year, as it allows more sunlight to reach them and | | | | You may find that, whatever you do, there is |
| improves the air circulation. | | | | quite a lot of fresh growth after pruning - some |
| Note that you are not carrying out any formative | | | | varieties of apple tree are just like that. To |
| pruning of old wood at this point, just removing | | | | prevent this, here is a tip - choose two or three |
| the soft new growth. | | | | of the longest side lateral shoots and don't prune |
| Choosing the right time to summer prune your | | | | them at all until spring (when you should cut them |
| apple trees requires a bit of attention. As a rule of | | | | back to one bud above their base). |
| thumb, the second and third weeks of August are | | | | Doing this should divert energy away from new |
| best in the south of the country and the end of | | | | growth around your pruning cuts. |
| August in the North (pear trees are done earlier). | | | | As always, use sharp, clean secateurs and, if you |
| The most important thing to keep an eye on is | | | | are doing more than one apple tree, disinfect |
| the base of the new shoots: they should be stiff | | | | them between each of the fruit trees. It is safer |
| and have woody bark forming on their bases, | | | | to burn, bury or dump the cuttings than it is to |
| along the first third or so of their length. When | | | | compost them, to reduce the risk of spreading |
| you get started on pruning , this is what you | | | | any dormant diseases. |