Travelogue From White Horse on to Dawson City and Gold

Another early morning for us from White Horse.motor coach I saw a beautiful forest that
We had to board our motor coach at 8:00 a.m. soappeared to look much like a gorgeous green
before we did that we walked down two blockspatchwork quilt of every color of green against
to a Tom Horton's to grab some breakfast andthe rolling hills. The groves of birch trees or cedar
then went across the street to Starbucks fortrees stood out against the darker pines and so
that first cup of coffee of the day to get usthick that it looked smooth as if sewn together
going. White Horse has a population of 23,000like a quilt.
people and is the capital of the Yukon Territory.The Yukon River meandered through the low
White Horse was a big port in "the day".meadows. As we continued on, every once in a
When gold was discovered in Dawson City bywhile we would see more evidence of forest
George Carmack news quickly flew about Gold!fires. Though there was much new growth on the
Gold! Gold! And the rush was on.forest floor, the evidence of the fires was
We departed from the hotel on the plush motorobvious with the dark, burned barren tree trunks
coach furnished by Holland America and passedstanding tall but with no branches - just like sticks
the large white paddle wheeler, The Klondike. Thisstuck in the ground. There were also many areas
was one of the only ways to get from Skagwaywhere the trees had fallen and the trunks were
to Whitehorse back in the Gold Rush Days. Thelaying on the floor of the forest next to each
Klondike was built in 1898 and is now a museum.other, grey from the weather.
We traveled along the Alaska Highway for aboutAll along the highway there are signs for
20 miles to the intersection of the Klondikecampgrounds for those being adventurous and
Highway. The Yukon River is 2,200 miles long anddriving through this magnificent area. There are
flows south to north and empties into the Beringsmall road stops with a one-pump gas station if
Sea. The Raven is the territorial bird of the Yukon.you are in need of gasoline. Gasoline is quite
In White Horse, they experience 6-7 hours ofexpensive here at about $1.18 per liter which
daylight in the winter months and 21 hours ofcomputes into about $5.00 per gallon in the US.
daylight on the longest day of the year, June 21st.Ouch!
Skagway was the gateway to the Klondike. TheThe closer we got to Dawson City, I noticed yet
trek from Skagway began with your firstanother change in the landscape. The thick forest
destination of Whitehorse and then ultimately tochanged to groves of birch and cedar trees with
Dawson City. By the time the prospectors andtheir branches gently moving in the wind. Their
hopeful gold miners finally had traveled all of thewhite trunks are straight and tall and they have
trails, they would have traveled over 600 miles inan umbrella of leaves on their top branches of a
all.light grayish green color.
100,000 men and women came throughDawson City was where the original gold was
Skagway. They either climbed up the Chilkootfound that started the stampede to the Yukon in
Trail or the White Pass Trail. They say that no1898. George Carmack staked his claim on
matter which one you decided to take, youAugust 16, 1898 at "Discovery Claim" in the
always wished you had taken the other trail. TheKlondike River Valley. As soon as news spread
"Chilkoot" means the "meanest trail". Schools doabout the gold discovery, Dawson City saw an
not have snow days but they have "bear" days.influx of thousands. The Gold Rush lasted only a
When the grizzlies decide to come visit, thecouple of years, but the legend will live forever. It
parents keep the kids home.is said that there is still a lot of gold in them thar'
We crossed the Tahini River which was veryhills. Of the 100,000 who trekked over the
reminiscent of driving through the mountains inmountains, only about 30,000 actually made it to
northern California with a two lane road withDawson City.
gravel and dirt shoulders and about 209 feet offOur afternoon stop about 2:30 was at Moose
the road begins the forest. We learned that whenCreek Lodge - just a little roadside log cabin
there happens to be a forest fire up here, theypainted red. Their claim to fame is their
let it burn They do not fight it unless it ishomemade tarts. We tasted a raspberry one -
threatening homes.and they ARE very tart.
This has been the first time that we have seenTintina Trench was our final picture stop of the
the Alaska fireweed. It is about two feet tall withday. It is a fault line in a glorious valley of
delicate magenta colored flowers at the top. It isspectacular panoramic views of the majestic
fully edible and the first flower to grow back aftermountains and valleys of the Yukon Territory. It
a fire. Then the birch, aspen and cottonwoodsis 45 miles from here to Dawson City.
return and then the pine trees.The forest has now changed once again to pines
We stopped at the Braeburn Lodge for thethat are only one straight trunk up standing tall
largest cinnamon rolls made in the Yukonwith no branches. The highway is lined with
Territory. These humongous rolls are at least 2-3"patches of bright pink wild sweet peas that grow
tall and are at least 8 or more inches in diameter.to about 6 inches tall and are not edible. The
The Braeburn Lodge is a small log cabin wit alandscape seems to change at almost every turn,
large front deck with hanging baskets full ofand it is more beautiful than the last one. The sky
purple and pink petunias and small pansies.is so blue it is incredible. The skies have cleared
Animals that you will find in the Yukon include elk,with only a few puffy white clouds dotting it
moose, raven, black bear and grizzly bears. Polarmaking it look even much deeper blue.
Bears are only about 100 miles north of DawsonOne of the other things that we have been able
City and are the most violent.to experience first-hand on this trip is the
Our tour guides are not letting us go hungry byinfamous Alaska mosquito. They are about ½
any means. We have a stop every two hours.inch long and unfortunately several have decided
Today's lunch stop was at Carmacks - anothermy forehead is a nice place to have a little snack.
small village along the highway We had lunch atThey are pesky little creatures.
the Hotel Carmacks - a rich tomato base, turkeyWe enjoyed dinner last night at Sourdough Joe's
vegetable rice soup with our choice of sandwich. Ifor fish and chips. I had grilled salmon and Jim had
opted for the veggie wrap which was in a greenthe cod. We ate with two other couples from our
tortilla with only lettuce and cucumber inside - notgroup and enjoyed getting to know everyone a
the best choice taste wise. I would have enjoyedlittle more.
a salad more.The Hotel is a wooden structureMany in our group decided to partake in the "Sour
painted in a light blue base with white trim. ThereToe" drink at the Gold Rush Hotel. Honestly, I
was actually a little mini-mart near the frontthought it was gross and disgusting - but there
where they had a good supply of goods offeredwere actually seven people from our group that
for the travelers that stop by.got in on the festivities. They have this big
After our tummies were all full, we headed outceremony and if you put this frost bitten toe in
again down the highway and across a new steelyour shot of Yukon Jack you have to drink it and
bridge over the Yukon River.the toe has to touch your lips.
We had a picture stop at Five Finger Rapids aboutOnce that was over, we walked outside and the
half an hour after lunch. Originally there were foursun was shining high in the sky, not a cloud in the
islands in this very narrow channel which madesky and it was 10:30 p.m.!! Such is the land of the
navigating through the rapids quite a challenge inmidnight sun! Tomorrow we actually get to sleep
the old paddle wheel boats and other boats thein and we will enjoy that! We have a small coffee
prospectors had built for the journey. Now, therepot in our room - which we will also enjoy while
are only two islands and three fingers of the riverwe are getting ready. There are "black out"
- but it is still a dangerous area to pass throughcurtains on our windows, so when we shut them,
and quite a challenge in any boat.literally no light comes through and it is easy to
Looking across the valley out the window of ourget to sleep.